A rough-in valve for a shower is a part that goes into the wall and connects both hot and cold water lines. This part is essential for every dual-temperature shower installation, as it either separates or unites both water supplies.
As you see, this part of showers is more complicated than it seems. So installing it is often a pretty tricky job. But don’t worry – we know exactly how to do it.
Here, we’re going to teach you exactly how you can get a Delta shower valve rough-in installed on any wall.
Are you ready to start the first step into enjoying a dual-temperature shower at home? Then read on!
Installing a Delta Shower Valve Rough-in in 8 Steps
This process won’t be the easiest, but following our advice will get you far. As long as you know what you’re doing, you can get any valve rough-in installed without problems. For a Delta shower, here’s how:
Thing You Will Need
- Adjustable wrench
- Screws & nuts
- Solder iron
These are not obligatory, and you can replace them with similar tools that do the same work. Just consider them the main tools to have for this. Once you have them, you can proceed with the installation.
1. Prepare Everything
Preparing the installation process will give you a boost in speed & effectiveness. If you’re prepared, then fixing the rough-in valve into the wall will be a piece of cake. Here’s how:
- Before you do anything with the connections, make sure to disconnect all water supplies. Nothing should have a single drop of water running through. This will be essential for the effectiveness of the installation.
- Then keep going and check that you have all the necessary items/parts to make this possible. This includes the bonnet, plaster guard, cover, test cap, screen, and stop.
By now, you should be ready to start mounting the valve.
2. Mount the Rough-in on the Wall
After shutting the water supply and gathering all the valve parts, you can mount the body of the rough-in into the wall. Proceed this way:
- Make sure to check the thickness of the wall and the body of the valve by using the backplate. It should fit the valve without problems and also let the valve reach the water supply.
- Then you can start mounting the piece. Use the mounting holes on the brackets. These brackets are usually below the cover, so you’ll have to remove it.
- Check that the word “UP” is on top of the valve. This will ensure that you’re placing the valve the right way.
- For thin walls, the plaster guard should be behind the wall. Otherwise, you must always have the plaster guard at the front.
- Once the body is on the wall, flush the valve using the plaster guard. It should fit neatly, so you don’t end up with an awkward-looking shower. Some Delta showers are stop models. In this case, you will need a plaster guard flush of 3/8-inches.
By now, you should have the rough-in mounted on the wall and ready to connect to the water supply.
3. Connect the Valve to Water Supply
If the valve is on the wall, then it is time to connect it to the water inlets. Here’s how:
- Select the right fitting for the supply pipes. Make sure to have copper, iron, or PEX pipes accordingly. Otherwise, the installation won’t be as effective.
- Remember to connect both cold & hot water at the same time. If you’re leaving one of them unused, then you’ll have to cover it with a pipe plug. Don’t forget to use the Teflon as needed.
- For reversed installations (hot supply on right & cold supply on the left), you’ll have to follow the same process. The only difference will be on usage.
If you have connected the valve to the water supplies, then it is time to solder everything.
4. Remove Test Cap & Cover and Then Solder
You will find a bonnet and a test cap just in front of the valve. These will not let you make the installation entirely, so you’ll have to remove them.
- Get the test cap and bonnet off the valve. You will need to leave the screen (small filtering device) installed.
- Remove all the stops before soldering. There are screws on the side of the valve. Keep them off so you can install the valve more easily and prevent any permanent mistake.
- Once you take them off, you can start soldering. Remember to not solder at high temperatures as it is not needed. Instead, use the lowest settings and keep the soldering iron away from the screen to prevent any damage.
Once you do that, then you’re almost ready to start connecting the rest of the external parts to the valve.
5. Connect the Outlet
The outlet usually goes on the upper connection of the internal valve parts. This will let the water pass through the valve directly into the shower. Here’s how to connect it:
- Find the proper fitting, considering the type of pipes you’re using. Then connect them to the top outlet of the valve interior. It should fit tightly, and the top should point towards you. Use Teflon once again to secure the connections.
- If you’re using a tub, then you’ll need to connect the bottom outlet to the tub spout pipe, as well. Again, use the right fitting considering the type of pipes you’re working with. We recommend avoiding PEX tubing for tubs.
Now that you’re here, it is time to test everything against pressure leaks.
6. Test Pressure
Testing is essential, so you know whether you’ve made the right installation or not. And if there’s any leak, you will be able to fix it before connecting the showers and other exterior fittings. Here’s how to test:
- Remove the cover and the cap once again. Check that the O-ring and the screen are installed in the right place. You may need to check the manual to know that.
- If everything is in the right place, then you can connect the bonnet and test cap once again. Tighten them correctly. Then plug the hot spout and the showerhead into the outlets.
- Check that all the outlets and inlets are connected and plugged so you can open the water supply.
- Check for any signs of leaks or deficiency. Make sure everything is tightened, and the water runs through without setbacks.
- Finish by unplugging the showerhead and/or tub spout.
If the connection doesn’t leak, then you’re ready to flush the system and start using it. Otherwise, fix as needed.
7. Flush & Install Stops
After having removed the shower and/or tub spot, then you’re ready to start flushing. This is all about letting water through for a few minutes.
- You will need to let the system flush for about 5 minutes. Use both the hot and cold water so you can check in search of any leaks. Otherwise, just let it run. This will clean the internal parts of the piping.
- After letting the system flush, you can then proceed to remove the test cap and bonnet, then get the screen out.
- Here, install the stops or screws onto the wall, so the valve rough-in tightens up, and you can use it directly without problems. It is essential to use the nuts on the stem, as explained in the valve manual. Remember to use the screwdriver as needed (usually a flat-head).
- Then put the screen, test cap, and bonnet back.
You’re now ready to finish the installation of the shower.
8. Finish the Installation
Now, you’re ready to install any shower and/or tub spout as needed. Remember to use all the Teflon, nuts, screws, and compression systems as required so you can install everything well enough.
We heavily recommend following the manufacturer’s manual to make this easy. Even though most Delta shower valve rough-ins are pretty similar, some of them may differ a little in terms of installation. But still, follow this guide for an easier time.
Don’t hesitate when installing a valve rough-in for your shower. This is an essential part of those double-temperature systems, so you’ll need to do it without fault.
If you want to have an effortless time, then you must follow this step-by-step guide to the letter. It will help you get your shower working without problems.
So, what are you waiting for? Get that Delta shower valve installed now!